| COASTAL AND SHELF SEA INTERACTIONS | ||
| Coastal Processes | ||
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The Holderness Experiment A measurement programme off Holderness over three winter seasons underpins much work in coastal processes. Originally formulated as a contribution to LOIS/RACS, addressing the component of land-ocean exchange due to transports between an eroding coast and the adjacent sea region, the concept of a comprehensive data set describing sea levels, currents, waves, suspended sediments, etc., attracted funding from MAFF through its programme Coastal Area Modelling in the Long Term (CAMELOT). The data sets also support work in the European Union (EU) MAST projects Surface Current and Wave Variability Experiment (SCAWVEX) and Pre-operational |
Modelling in the Seas of Europe (PROMISE). Processing of all data was completed and
documented. Staged dissemination of the data to project participants began with the
production of CD ROMs and using the World Wide Web and analysis is under way.
Analysis of wave data showed marked differences between conditions in 1994-95 and 1995-96; the first dominated by offshore winds giving low-fetch-limited waves and occasional large swell events, and the second by onshore winds and typical wind-sea spectra. A classification based on wave steepness, height and period, allowed swell and wave growth situations to be distinguished |
and showed strong tidal modulation due to interaction with the currents, strongest for
waves from the SE aligned with the maximum current.
An intercomparison of wave measurements from in-situ instruments and radars in SCAWVEX demonstrated the need to account for currents when estimating waves from bottom pressures. Preliminary analyses of X-band radar wave data suggested that useful estimates water depth in the area just outside the surf zone, difficult to survey by other means, might be possible, though a better transfer function, relating wave height to radar return, and improved treatment of dispersion including currents were required. |
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Last updated: 12th May 1998. Please send comments to A.Lane@pol.ac.uk | ||