COASTAL AND SHELF SEA INTERACTIONS
Coastal Processes
Nearshore modelling
A hydrodynamic model for Holderness, with resolution 1.2 km, linked to shelf scale operational models has been run for more than ten years in total including 1992-1996, providing water level and depth mean current data for input to turbulence and sediment transport calculations.

A new 240 m resolution Wash tide-surge model, nested within the Holderness grid, was set up for use in collaborative projects (LOIS Special Topic 146, with the NERC Environmental Systems Science Centre (ESSC) and Inter-Tidal Digital Elevaion Models Using Satellite Data (INDUS), a BNSC "LINK" project with ESSC and National Remote Sensing Centre Ltd. (NRSC)). The aim is to construct digital elevation models (DEMs) describing the topography of the inter-tidal zone. The model provides water levels along geo-located shorelines defined by image analysis from SAR scenes at different tidal states. Interpolation from the "pseudo contours" produces the DEM. The accuracy of the first Wash DEM (Figure 1a) is about 20 cm. This depends on both model heights and precision of shoreline location. Differences between inter tidal area in the DEM and in the Wash model (Figure 1b) suggest that the DEM can improve the initial model bathymetry and, with the finer resolution, reduce water level errors.

Enhancements of the WAM spectral wind wave model were incorporated into a version - "POLWAM" - suitable for application at high O(1 km) resolution in shallow water. These include: aspects of physics, with alternative bottom dissipation formulations and energy dissipation by depth induced wave breaking; improved propagation, reducing numerical energy loss from waves propagating along a coast; improved integration of the source terms, providing more accurate simulation of wave growth; and improved (up to 10×) computational efficiency. Tests were carried out in idealised cases and for the North Sea, the Southern Bight, Holderness and the Adriatic. Application of POLWAM on nested grids to simulate Holderness Waves began with studies of storm cases. Results (Figure 2) for the storm on 2 January 1995 with the largest observed wave heights (Hs) were encouraging but did not

account for the tidal variations in Hs observed at N2 as interactions were not included.

A scheme was established to nest SWAN, a nearshore wave model being developed by Delft University of Technology, into WAM. The work contributes to PROMISE and to the aims of the "Waves in Shallow Environments" (WISE) group.

Sediment transport modelling progressed with application of a single point vertical (1DV) turbulent energy model with k-e closure, developed in PROMISE, to predict accurately the vertical structure of currents, turbulence and concentrations of suspended particulate matter (SPM), and a 2D model representing advection, diffusion, erosion and deposition to predict the horizontal distribution of fine grained SPM (< 200 µm) on the 1.2 km grid, contributing to LOIS, PROMISE and CAMELOT. Both models link with the 2D hydrodynamic model. The 1DV model reproduced near-bed currents observed about 10 km offshore, and described the balance of terms in the turbulent kinetic energy (tke) equation, varying with height above the bed (Figure 3). At 3 m (d) production and dissipation dominate, with production exceeding dissipation, whereas at 13 m (c) dissipation and produciton are O(10) times smaller, with dissipation exceeding production. The difference is supplied by upward diffusion of tkefrom the bed.

The 2D SPM model may be either coupled directly with the hydrodynamic model or, more efficiently, driven by stored hourly data from it. Input of monthly mean fresh water flows from the Ouse and Trent provided more realistic conditions in the Humber Estuary for a re-run simulation of October 1994 - March 1995 with hydrodynamic and SPM models.

A 1D numerical model was used to simulate long-term channel evolution in an estuary and to predict its equilibrium length and shape. Taking as input tidal range at the mouth and river flow at the head, two methods for updating the channel geometry (convergence of tidal mean current to a prescribed value, or calculation of the net sediment deposited or eroded) were investigated. Computations for a range of specified input values gave results in broad agreement with data from real estuaries.

Wash DEM
Figure 1
a) First DEM showing topography of inter tidal areas in the Wash, based on Holderness model heights and, b) dry areas at low tide in the 240 m grid Wash model.




tke model results
Figure 3
Results from the 1D tke model for 21 December 1995 at Holderness station N2. a) model and observed current componets 0.7 m above the bed, b) the vertical distribution of turbulence kinetic energy (tke) and the balance of the terms in the tke equation, c) 13 m and d) 3 m above the bed (note the different scales).
WAM model results
Figure 2
a) Distributions of computed wave heights (Hs) on a 2.4 km grid and wind vectors at 0000GMT on 2 January 1995, and b) comparison of time series Hs from the model and a wave buoy at station N2, about 10 km offshore.


Last updated: 12th May 1998. Please send comments to A.Lane@pol.ac.uk